The Climbers Festival Rocked!

By: Rick Casey

The first annual Climbers Festival was, I have to say even as a biased participant, an unqualified success. The Outings Committee hopes to make it an annual event!

The format of the event was the simple tried and true formula that has been followed by climbers ever since the sport began: lead some fun rock climbing routes, and then get together for a meal and/or drinking afterwards. The trips were open to all qualified CMC members, and a number of rock leaders volunteered to lead: John Fernandez, Jeff Boring, Chris Grosshans, Clare Reda, Brenda Leach, Gretchen Gaugler, Irina Overeem and myself (Rick Casey). Jeff, Chris and I were the primary organizers, but I must say Jeff did most of it.

In all, about thirty people participated. The climbing teams were organized around trips announced through the state website, but described as being part of the Climbers Festival. Trips were then followed by the cookout to which all climbers were invited. All food and refreshments were provided by the Outings Committee, with funding through BMS (Boulder Mountain Schools).

(Yes, the Outings Committee does have a budget to party!)

The different trips departed at various times, the earliest getting started at 7am. Destinations ranged from the Wind Tower to the Whale’s Tale to the West Ridge, and varied in grade from 5.6 to 5.10 (on top rope). I was paired as a co-leader with Clare, and so we each took up a separate couple of people, forming two three person teams on two easy routes on the Wind Tower formation.

Here’s a shot of Clare getting started on Wind Ridge:

Check out the size of the gear rack; this girl is ready for anything! (click to enlarge)

I led a married couple, Lisa Strunk and Aaron Bush, up the climb Breezy, which starts in the same place. Here’s a pic of them at the start of the climb Breezy (5.6):

(click to enlarge)

In the afternoon, I then led a trip at Supremacy Rock, where a top rope was set up on Supremacy Slab. My co-leader, Wayne Densmore, built a trad anchor at the top (as there are no bolt anchors). We belayed a number of climbers up the route, including Jen Widmer, Carrie Simon and Matt Dawson, among others. Here’s a shot of Matt in one of the cruxy parts:

(click to enlarge)

The best part was that the Outings Committee was lucky enough to be given access to the patio on the west end the Visitor’s Center for the BBQ; this was quite the score! I had no idea this patio even existed, but it was the perfect venue for the event. The Eldorado Canyon State Park staff was very easy to work with and the Outings Committee was quite grateful for this gesture.

Here’s a shot of the BBQ crowd on the patio:

That’s Jeffrey Boring of the Outings Committee raising his hands in celebration of how well the event turned out. (click to enlarge)

The great working relationship between the Park and the Club is mutually beneficial, as the Club contributes to safe climbing in the Park. In return, climber and Eldorado Canyon State Park Ranger (since 1990), Steve Muelhausen, comes and gives a presentation on climbing safety to the Rock Lead School every year.

The event turned out so well that the Outings Committee is planning on repeating it next year. The timing of the event comes after the completion of the Basic Rock School (BRS) and before the beginning of Rock Lead School (RLS). We hope it will help to foster development of more rock trip leaders for the club, and the community around them.

You can view all my pictures of the Climbers Festival here.

And, for Clare Reda’s pics, here.

Dry Canyoneering or How I Spent Memorial Weekend Scraping, Slipping, and Sliding Down Sandstone

It is easy to explain the sport of canyoneering; one drops into a canyon, progresses down the canyon, and either climbs or hikes out of the canyon.

In it’s simplest form, it is much like kayaking; with a “put-in” and a “take-out”. Except, rather than floating downstream and navigating obstacles, one manipulates and contorts one’s body to flow with the ripples of the canyon walls. Rather than waterfalls, one is confronted with complex rappels over cliffs, where the landing zone is completely obscured from view.

Erin Down Climbing the Leprechaun, photo courtesy of Erin Thompson

Through a newbie lens, it feels risky and dangerous in the “I don’t know what I don’t know” sense. And yet, even though I am still in the thrillingly steep upward section of the learning curve, I heartily recommend canyoneering. Especially, if one gets the chance to go canyoneering with Jill, see her picture below. Jill is a very good teacher and our trip was amazing!

Having previous rock climbing, scrambling, and/or caving experience certainly helps as well! Other skills such as navigation with maps using gps/compass, climbing techniques, athleticism, flexibility, and ability to judge distance are invaluable.

Byron Teaching High Stemming to Clare, Fred, and Erin, photo courtesy of Erin Thompson

In canyoneering, unlike climbing, it is essential the group work together to overcome obstacles. Some obstacles can be negotiated with the talents of 1 or 2 members, but others require the strength of the whole group. This team aspect of canyoneering is very attractive. It is one of my greatest joys to see how people pull together to solve problems; how every member of the team can be a valuable contributor to a successful canyon adventure.

Gear is important too! I was fortunate to have elbow and knee pads, a helmet, my alpine bod harness, a comfy pair of sticky rubber approach shoes, summer gators, and some sticky palmed gardening gloves.

10 Tips for a Happy and Safe Canyoneering Adventure

By Clare Reda

With special contributions from Jill Yarger.

Photos unless otherwise stated: courtesy Clare Reda

1. Bring an old, small backpack and minimize it’s contents. Think Ultralight!
Big packs run the risk of getting stuck in the slots, inducing fatigue, and slowing the group’s progress.

Do the team a favor and leave what is not essential for survival at home. Of the 10 essentials, maybe pair it down: a big black trashbag, headlamp, tube of Neosporin, various drugs for fever/pain/sinus probs, small wad of tp, matches, a whistle, compass/gps device, sunscreen, and duct tape. Consider taking one first aid kit for the team vs. everybody carrying their own.

If possible, take a backpack no bigger than a grocery bag. If there is a need to carry a rope, carry it separately and outside the pack in a coil or in a thin rope bag attached to your harness.

Erin Made a Custom Protective Sleeve for her Pack!

2. Wear protective gear and Sticky Climbing Rubber Soled Approach Shoes
Who cares what you look like! This is all about being comfy and minimizing bruising and pain. Pads help to reduce, or add friction, depending upon how much pressure is exerted against the rock.

Having approach shoes will improve traction on the rock, allowing one to control movement up or down. Unwanted slips can be scary if not dangerous. Climbing rubber is best, so even if you have an old pair of hiking shoes…get ’em resoled with your favorite rubber!

The Author Jumping Over a Keeper Pothole (Picture by Byron)

3. Wear old clothes!!!
Again, it’s not a fashion contest. Everything will get ripped, worn down, and get sand ground into it. Wear stuff you’ve been meaning to get rid of, or be expecting to when the trip is over!

Fred Wearing An Old Bronco’s Long Sleeve